White out
A vignette by me.
The ground shakes. The sand sticks to my feet like hot chocolate to finger. My mouth was dry from the sandy winds. I mean of course it was, why wouldn’t it be, after all I was where the desert and the ocean met. Cliffs to my right, desert and mountains behind. More cliffs and deserts to my left. The big vast Pacific ocean staring me in the face like a bull staring at a red flag. I was scared. A wave I’ve never surfed, big and scary. One wave after another they just kept getting bigger. I cleared my mind, took a deep breath and ran to the edge of the water, hopped on my board and paddled into the abyss. I eye one out the back. My arms slowly move like a train until full speed. 1, 2, 3. I stare down the long sloping face.
No regrets full force and not holding back. I stand up one foot and then the other. The wave takes the shape of a mutant. It takes hold of me and throws me down the falls. Its funny how you can focus on something so small like a singular bubble while getting thrown around like a rag doll. Blam! I smack the water but it feels. It feels like hard and rough cement. I lay flat like a pancake on the surface of the ocean waiting for the lip to take me under. Not even time for a breath. I go under. Bouncing on boulders like trampolines one after another. The water settles and I’m scratching for air. But it won’t let go. I’m losing sight of light, all of the sudden I slam my arm on the biggest boulder. Everything is silent and dark. My body goes limp and I float to the surface like a rubber ducky in a bath. My eyes open, water comes pouring out of my mouth and I’m awake! I find myself next to my board and full of energy yet I feel sore and tired. I cough up more and more water as I paddle back out. Let’s take it easy.
A vignette by me.
The ground shakes. The sand sticks to my feet like hot chocolate to finger. My mouth was dry from the sandy winds. I mean of course it was, why wouldn’t it be, after all I was where the desert and the ocean met. Cliffs to my right, desert and mountains behind. More cliffs and deserts to my left. The big vast Pacific ocean staring me in the face like a bull staring at a red flag. I was scared. A wave I’ve never surfed, big and scary. One wave after another they just kept getting bigger. I cleared my mind, took a deep breath and ran to the edge of the water, hopped on my board and paddled into the abyss. I eye one out the back. My arms slowly move like a train until full speed. 1, 2, 3. I stare down the long sloping face.
No regrets full force and not holding back. I stand up one foot and then the other. The wave takes the shape of a mutant. It takes hold of me and throws me down the falls. Its funny how you can focus on something so small like a singular bubble while getting thrown around like a rag doll. Blam! I smack the water but it feels. It feels like hard and rough cement. I lay flat like a pancake on the surface of the ocean waiting for the lip to take me under. Not even time for a breath. I go under. Bouncing on boulders like trampolines one after another. The water settles and I’m scratching for air. But it won’t let go. I’m losing sight of light, all of the sudden I slam my arm on the biggest boulder. Everything is silent and dark. My body goes limp and I float to the surface like a rubber ducky in a bath. My eyes open, water comes pouring out of my mouth and I’m awake! I find myself next to my board and full of energy yet I feel sore and tired. I cough up more and more water as I paddle back out. Let’s take it easy.